Fit the exhaust LOOSELY first, ensuring all mounts sit on their respective rubbers. Once mounted, start tightening the bolts from the back moving forward, positioning and seating each piece carefully as you tighten to avoid losing clearance at each flange. If the exhaust is rubbing or hitting your vehicle, loosen off the flanges in the area of concern, insert a 10mm chock where it is rubbing, slowly tighten the flanges back up, and then remove the chock.

Bell flares consist of a dome-shaped gasket sitting between two flanges (one with a deep curve) and bolt up using two spring-loaded bolts allowing slight horizontal pivot. Ensure the springs are placed on the nut side of the two flanges, not between them. If extra thread room is needed during installation, depress the springs with zip ties and cut the zip ties after installation.

No. Torqit provides crush-type foil-coated gaskets which create a perfectly airtight seal, making gasket goo or exhaust sealant unnecessary.

Sometimes it is necessary to trim certain objects on your vehicle to comfortably accommodate a wider exhaust diameter. This can include side-step brackets, metal or plastic mudguards, and heat shields.

On some vehicles, a heat shield is located directly above where the exhaust passes over the rear axle. These heat shields are affixed by screws, and it is sometimes necessary to cut the head off one or more of these screws to prevent them from tapping against the exhaust when the suspension compresses.

We strongly recommend liberally spraying WD40 (or similar penetrating spray) on dump pipe studs and bolts 24-48 hours before attempting to unbolt them. This is especially advised for vehicles more than 5 years old.

Wait until the exhaust and vehicle are completely cool, then lay underneath and try shaking the exhaust system slightly. Whatever component is making contact should become apparent, allowing you to rectify clearance issues.